It was the summer of 2023, and it was time to embark on a trip that had been at the top of my list for quite some time. Come with me on our 10-day trip to Morocco, where I’ll share the places we visited, the sites we saw, and the new culture I discovered.
Marrakech
It was only a 30-minute drive from the Marrakech airport to our traditional Moroccan home on the Amelkis golf course. This riad-style house was filled with handwoven carpets, artisanal lamps, patterned tiles, and hand-carved wooden details. Upon arriving, I had my first chicken tagine, a North African slow-cooked stew prepared in a tagine pot made of clay or ceramic.
On day 2, I put on a black silk set and comfortable sandals for a full day of exploring. But right before that, I had my first traditional Moroccan breakfast, which I still think about to this day. I loved everything from the Moroccan semolina pancakes (Baghrir) drizzled with honey, pastries, and the mint tea.
With our tour guide Saleem, we explored the Saadian Tombs, showcasing the elegance of Moroccan architecture. Then we visited Jardin Majorelle, which contains a lush garden of 300 plant species and was home to Yves Saint-Laurent. Up next, it was time to head to the souks—one of the liveliest parts of Marrakech.
The scent of Moroccan spices. The narrow streets with donkeys passing by. Vendors selling fruits, vegetables, and jewelry. Craftsmen making lamps and carpets, and fabric being dyed from natural dyes—all created an incredible atmosphere. We even learned about the medicinal properties of herbs and how Argan oil is used for hair and skin. I loved strolling here, taking in all the scents, sounds, and details. I observed traditional Moroccan shoe-making and listened to the Islamic prayer broadcast throughout the Medina as the mosques filled up. It was all so new to me. I had been to a Muslim country once before when I was younger, in Turkey, so being able to experience it again at an older age was beautiful. That night, we dined at Nomad, a stunning rooftop overlooking the souks, as the city settled down.
On the morning of day 3, we went to Bacha Coffee for breakfast, a luxurious café. I recommend getting there 15 minutes before opening because a long queue starts to form. This place was breathtaking—the location, the food, everything. They have over 200 types of coffee from 35 countries, fresh pastries, homemade jam, Chantilly whipped cream, juices, teas, fruits, and omelets. After a wonderful breakfast with a friend who lives in Marrakech, we walked over to Jardin Secret, a peaceful oasis in the city center. We sat under the trees in the exotic garden, admired the green tiles, and learned about the ancient water supply. This relaxing stop encouraged us to try a hammam.
A hammam is essentially a public bathhouse believed to cleanse the soul and body. It includes steam rooms, hot marble benches, and skin cleansing with Moroccan black soap and an exfoliating scrub. I loved the experience and the mint tea and cookies provided afterward. We went to a hammam called Marajah. To end the day, we had dinner at Le Jardin, which is situated in a 16th-century building with open-air dining. I still think about two dishes I had there—the cheese briouates and the garden burger.
Day 4 marked our last day in Marrakech before we headed off to our next adventure. We started with a luxurious traditional breakfast at our friend Edan’s house, enjoying sugar donuts, chocolate croissants, mint tea, Baghrir, and bread with jams and honey. We spent most of the afternoon there, learning about Moroccan traditions and watching a video of Edan’s parents’ wedding when they got married in Morocco.
Later in the afternoon, we visited Amanjena, a luxury hotel owned by the Aman hotel group. Amanjena in Arabic means “peaceful paradise,” and that’s exactly what it felt like. We had mint tea and explored the grounds, which was a perfect balance of nature and opulence. There were vast fountains and pools lined with palm trees that led to private gardens and Maisons. Because the hotels in Marrakech are works of art, we decided to get drinks before dinner at Royal Mansour. A luxury riad hotel with such intricate details that I could write about it all day. The tiles, the woodwork, and the fabrics all contributed to an elegant ambiance. We had drinks in the garden, then returned home to cook dinner and prepare for our early departure the next morning.
Essaouira
After a three-hour drive, we arrived in Essaouira, a vibrant port and resort town on the Atlantic Ocean. I was particularly excited to check into our hotel for the night, Les Jardins de Villa Maroc—a peaceful haven on an 11-hectare property featuring traditional Moroccan “dome-like” stone homes, just a 15-minute drive from Essaouira. The property showcased incredible craftsmanship and blended seamlessly with the landscape. We quickly changed into bathing suits to cool off in the pool. We were in Morocco during the hottest week of the year, with temperatures reaching 120°F.
After cooling off and having some lunch, we changed to visit La Fromagerie, a unique spot to try camel cheese. It took us about an hour to find the place as the map location was inaccurate, and we ended up turning down various sanded streets, essentially off-roading, before reaching our destination. We sampled various cheeses with jams before heading to explore Essaouira.
As we arrived into town, the sun was setting, and we saw silhouettes of camels along the beach. We sat on the rocks, watching the waves crash below us, and I realized that I was in Africa for the first time ever. I felt incredibly grateful to be in this beautiful place with my family. As it was time for dinner, we headed to our reservation at Salut Maroc, a terrace restaurant that stood out with its colorful tiles amidst the city’s beige stone and white houses. We enjoyed a live performance as the sun set, and I was already excited for the following day.
The sound of crickets woke us up the next morning, and we had another traditional breakfast. Before returning to Marrakech, we visited the luxury Riad Mumtaz Mahal, a hammam tucked away on a quiet street. The architecture in Morocco continued to astound me. This riad featured intricate green and white tiles, wood carvings, columns, and arches. We admired the details, played with stray kittens, and then stepped into the hammam for cleansing, scrubbing, and a massage.
The Sahara Desert
Our journey to the Sahara Desert began with a drive from Marrakech to Merzouga, a small village where we would spend the night. Instead of driving the full distance at once, we stopped overnight before entering the desert. Our driver and guide, Mohammed, picked us up at 8 AM on June 28th. We loaded into his van and drove for two hours before stopping at an overlook to take in the valley views.
After another two-hour drive, we arrived at Ksar Aït Ben Haddou, a small village and UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1987. Situated in the Atlas Mountains, this fortified village was once an important trade route between Sudan and Marrakesh. Though few families still live here, it has served as the backdrop for famous movies like Gladiator and Game of Thrones. After a quick lunch, we continued to Hotel Riad Bahammou for the night. We were greeted with mint tea, enjoyed an incredible dinner under the stars, and then settled in for the night.
The next day, we awoke early, ready for the final stretch. It was Eid al-Adha, the Islamic “Festival of Sacrifice,” celebrating faith, obedience, and sacrifice. We saw sheep being sold as families prepared for the ritual sacrifice. In the car, we observed people leaving the mosque after the morning prayer. We stopped at an oasis, the only green life amidst the dry mountains. We learned how food is grown to sustain the surrounding village, and we saw women preparing the sheep meat by the river. A Berber family welcomed us into their home, where we learned how they weave traditional Moroccan rugs from lamb and camel wool.
Arriving to Merzouga, we transferred to Jeeps and eventually hopped onto camels for a two-hour trek to the camp. Riding camels through the desert, we encountered a sandstorm, ran down dunes, and learned from our young guide, who at just eight years old, walks with the camels daily. The views were surreal, with the quiet, orange sand dunes stretching as far as the eye could see. We reached our camp, where we were greeted with a drink and settled into our tent. Each of us found traditional Moroccan attire (Djellaba and Babouches) in our tents to wear to dinner. We recapped our experiences, dined under the stars, then danced and played drums with desert locals.
Another early morning, time to get back on the camels at 5am to go back to Merzouga into the van and then back to Marrakesh. I couldn’t believe I was waking up in the Sahara Desert and I still can’t believe I got to see the sunrise over the dunes. I took everything in on the camel ride back and on the straight shot drive back to Marrakesh.
I’m so grateful I was able to go on such a trip of a lifetime and experience it with my family. I am still in awe to this day about everything I learned about the Moroccan culture and that I was able to stand on sand dunes in the middle of the Sahara Desert.
If you are planning a trip to Marrakech, here is my advice:
- We rented a car but I probably wouldn’t the next time I visit. It’s a hectic city to drive in and hard to find parking. (I would rent a car if driving to other cities, unless you hire a driver or take the local transportation.)
- If you decide to rent a car, watch for speed traps and follow driving rules. The police pulled us over twice.
- Whether you are staying in a hotel, villa, airbnb, or hostel, I recommend visiting some of the luxury hotels in Marrakech for tea or drinks. All the hotels have stunning properties and architecture. We visited Royal Mansour for drinks and Amanjena for tea.
- I would avoid visiting in the summer. We were there for the hottest week of the year and it was tough on certain days.
- Don’t worry about the language barrier. Most of the people that have to interact with tourists all speak English, French, Italian, Spanish, and Arabic.
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