While traveling through Southern Italy, I made sure to visit Matera—the oldest city in the country and the third oldest in the world.
Matera hasn’t always been the vibrant city we see today. In 1952, people labeled it the “shame of Italy” due to overcrowding, unsanitary conditions, and poverty. Families lived in cramped quarters alongside their animals—donkeys, chickens, horses… In the 1970s, the Italian government decided Matera was unfit for habitation. Officials relocated residents to new housing outside the city. By the 1980s, people began returning and transforming the historic “sassi” into boutique hotels, restaurants, and spas.
So, what is the “Sassi di Matera”? In Italian, “sassi” means “stones,” which refers to the ancient cave dwellings here. People have inhabited these caves since the Paleolithic period, earning Matera a UNESCO World Heritage Site designation.
We hired a guide to take us through the ancient maze of caves and explain how the city once worked. Alongside stunning stone-carved churches and countless steps, we learned about Matera’s clever water collection system. Rainwater served as the primary source. People collected it in ponds and basins, which they distributed throughout the community using vertical and horizontal channels on roofs, stairs, and walls. They stored this water in underground tanks to use during dry months.
Our two-night stay in Matera aligned perfectly with La Festa Della Bruna on July 2nd. This festival honors the town’s patron saint, Madonna della Bruna. That night, colorful lights brightened the city. A statue of the Madonna, placed on a float designed by a local artisan, moved to the cathedral in a grand procession. Horses, musicians, and townspeople accompanied the float. Afterward, local men destroyed the float in the main square. According to legend, anyone who claims a piece of the float will have good luck for the year. We watched from a distance, as this part of the festival can get intense, with some people getting injured.
Where We Stayed:
We stayed at Locanda di San Martino, a charming three-star hotel featuring individual cave rooms. Our room, just a five-minute walk from the main hotel building, had a private entrance and terrace with stunning views of the city. Breakfast was served buffet-style, and the hotel also housed the Thermal Romanae—a series of heated pools, steam rooms, and hydromassage facilities.
Where We Ate:
- Trattoria Lucana 1900: A beloved local spot that has been around for 120 years, perfect for a casual lunch or dinner.
- Al Falco Grillaio: A traditional trattoria offering authentic local cuisine, ideal for experiencing regional flavors.
- La Talpa: Located in the heart of the sassi, this casual spot serves delicious pizza, perfect for a relaxed meal in the ancient part of the city.
Discover Locanda di San Martino.
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